Vancouver to Jasper

Thursday 8 September – Vancouver Island

Scratch breakfast today of muesli bars, coffee and raspberries. Then we were down at the lobby hoping that the tour we were booked on would meet there. All seemed very vague! Eventually the Cambie St, and along roads we'd travelled before, to the BC Ferry terminal (http://www.bcferries.com/ ) at Tsawwassen.

Out for coffee while we waited for the ferry but we were the first bus on. The ferry ride was very reminiscent of the Hawkesbury but wider and with evergreen woodlands,

When we landed on the other side we drove down to Butchart Gardens (http://www.butchartgardens.com ) for a 1.5 hour wander. It was truly beautiful! I am not really into gardens but it had some beautiful spots. We had scratch lunch in a lovely shady damp spot under huge evergreens. The gift shop was fabulous and I bought another scarf and an interesting window vase for a few gifts and for me.

The bus then took us on to Victoria where we had another 1.5 hours to wander. I visited the Bug Museum and saw 7” millipedes, tarantula spiders, a huge ant condominium, giant cockroaches and a variety of stick insects relatives. After a wander around the waterfront I sat in the shade. We were lucky that we heard the carillon play before we left.

A drive back to the ferry. As soon as we were aboard Elaine and I headed for the buffet dinner option. We could eat as much as we wanted (which of course is about 1/8^th the amount of most people here) and enjoyed mains and dessert.

Once we got back to our hotel we checked out and checked the place and time for tomorrow's transfer which turned out to be completely wrong anyway.

Friday 9 September – Vancouver-Kamloops

Today we left Vancouver on the first leg of our Rocky Mountaineer holiday. After a disturbed night it was a 5:30 am alarm call. Instructions had been different from every source about where we should meet and what to do about luggage. With a bit of wandering trying to sort it while I left Elaine minding the luggage we eventually found our bus and loaded on hoping all would be well in the end.

We boarded the train at about 8:30 and had a slow trip out along the south side of the Fraser River covering ground we had already travelled over for the first 50 km or so to Fort Langley. After that all was new ground.

As we were the second sitting for breakfast we didn't get it till about 10 am so it was lucky that we'd both had scratch breakfast before leaving the hotel.

The scenery for the first half of the trip was magnificent, majestic, fantastic …?!? We travelled through the Fraser River Gorge then along the Thompson River with the river, train track each side, and highway all using the same gorge at different levels. It was first a mix of deciduous and evergreen then all evergreen forest as we got higher. I saw a bald eagle, some black-tailed deer and later 2 bighorn sheep. The white water rafters were spectacular to watch on the Thompson. During the second half of the day the scenery was a much more open low scrub covery the steep hillsides. Quite a desert between the Coast Ranges and the Rocky Mountains in BC. The temperature got up to 36 C during the day today.

A rock fall bridge

Our train

Mumma bear and three cubs - taken by a fellow traveller.

While we were on the train news came through of a Richter 6 earthquake off Vancouver. Luckily we had missed it! Buildings in Vancouver shook but no real damage.

Taking photos was quite funny. It was difficult to click just at the right time to avoid trees and telegraph poles as they wizzed across the view. The whole carriage eventually started working together to look for the views and breaks.

The meals on the train are so fabulous that by the time we arrived in Kamloops Elaine and I were so full that we just had some of our cheese and bickies and ½ an apple each for dinner.

Once in our motel in Kamloops I had a Google chat with Geoff and a virtual tour of my garden then we both cleared up a few email tasks before heading out for a walk. Then it was showers and diary, dinner and bed ready for another 5:30 am alarm tomorrow.

My back-leg-hip is much better today.

Saturday 10 September – Kamloops-Banff

Left the motel at about 6:30 am and onto the train earlier than yesterday. Today we are the last carriage so have a great view out the back from an open air balcony. We enjoyed the first sitting at breakfast today and I really was ready for it.

After breakfast we started climbing again past some large lakes leaving the dry lands behind and heading into more forested mountains.

 

The staff on the train are really helpful and give us both official and personal bits of information. We are fed and watered (coffeed) continuously with delicious food.

Late in the morning we passed Shuswap Lake – 60 Km long. It is used for recreation but it also had a plywood factory where the logs arrive floating down from higher up the river. We also saw this in Vancouver itself. I saw a Bald Eagle at the end of Shuswap Lake.

The mountains, lakes and rivers are magnificent. The milkiness of the water is quite unusual. We went through two spiral tunnels and saw some fantastic engineering feats to bring people across the Rockies.

As we were coming into Banff we saw elk in the water but apart from that we saw very little wildlife during the day. Others saw a bear with cubs and a young moose but we were on the wrong side.

A short bus ride from the station delivered us to the Banff Springs Hotel, a fantastic castle like building from the 1920s.

Hotel in Banff was surrounded by beautiful gardens.

Elaine admiring the violets

On going up to our room we found we were to share a king-sized bed so I went back down to reception to explain that this was not on! They claimed we had been upgraded to a delux room (albeit looking out over the roof and fire escape) but if we really did not want to share a bed we could have an extra single bed (called a cot!) delivered to our room. I accepted this suggestion and it was soon done.

We then looked at prices for dinner and breakfast and decided to walk to town and buy supplies instead. Yoghurt and cereal for breakfast and we'll eat it with the forks from Delia.

Back to the hotel to find we had to pay for internet unless we joined the President Club (free) so Elaine went back down and did this so we could check emails etc.

Then there was the washing we had accumulated. As we are here for two nights we can hang it to dry so by the time we finished all the towels were saturated and the place looked like a Chinese laundry. Thanks to Karen G. for here twisty washing line.

Eventually we both collapsed into bed a little peeved but with all our problems solved.

Sunday 11 September – Banff

This morning we did not have to meet our tour coach till about 10 am so there was plenty of time for our breakfast, sorting and downloading and backing up of all our photos.

Our tour took us to the helicopter pad east of town on an Indian casino resort called Stoney Nakoda. Elaine and I opted out of the helicopter ride when we were booking the trip so took the opportunity to look around at the displays and shop at the resort and also to have coffee and biscuits at the helicopter flight centre while the others mostly had a flight. Many of them were not overly impressed by their 12 minute flight.

The tour then wound its way back to Banff via the circuitous route passed all resorts of views and sights like Cascade Mt, Sleeping Buffalo Mt and Two Jack Lake. We were dropped in Banff to have lunch so we joined Jeanette and Graham from Dongara south of Geraldton in WA. We went to Coyotes. Although we did not have enough time to eat the food was great and Elaine and I took our remaining sandwich back to the bus to finish.

The tour then continued via Bow Falls and Surprise Corner and back to the gondola ride which gave us superb views of the mountains and valleys. I also enjoyed watching a few little Golden Shouldered Squirrels (?) enjoying the sunshine. I need a better camera to be able to get closer photos of animals. Elaine's Canon and Jeanette's Olympus both do it fabulously.

The coach driver then dropped us at town where we four went to the food court in the mall to find dinner. We decided Edo's Japanese was best because the food was cooked freshly in front of us. It was great. Then a bit more shopping for supplies at Safeway. On the way home Elaine and I called into the Indian Trading Post following the recommendation of the coach driver. It was a fabulous shop kept in its original style from the early 1900s with hosts of Indian artefacts, gifts and stuff but the best part was all the stuffed animals, birds and heads mounted high around the walls. There had been a taxidermist working as part of the business a century ago and these were all from that time. The shop is still owned and run by the descendents of the original family.

Back to the hotel to sort ready to have our bags collected at 8 am tomorrow.

A most amusing thing about Elaine and I sharing a room is that when we are sorting we both wander around each other completely absorbed in what we are doing and talking to ourselves continuously. It fis so hilarious when we both realise and end up having a good laugh.

Monday 12 September – Banff-Lake Louise

After breakfast our bags were collected and we slowly made our way down to the bus by taking a short tour of the hotel and grounds.

The bus arrived, the bags were delivered and the bust driver asked us all to identify our bags – no labels for destination! However, for some reason he chose to ignore the fact that I had identified ours as had Elaine separately and when he was about to go someone saw their bags still on the ground so we all had to get back out and check if ours were there too (which in our case they were). Elaine then stood there until she saw him load them on. You may well ask “why weren't the bags tagged for destination?” We did wonder at the system.

An animal crossing bridge

Some people take everything including the kitchen sink!

Eventually we set off to see the Spiral Tunnels that we went through on the train and the beautiful Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park. 

We then went in to Lake Louise resort. As our room was not ready Jeanette and Graham suggested we leave our stuff in their room until ours was ready. Wow! The sight on opening their door was stunning. A view over Lake Louise and Victoria Glacier from the 8^th floor (tip) in centre front.

The view of Lake Louise from Jeanette and Graham's room.

We stayed there admiring the room and view for a bit then all walked around the lake, Jeanette and Elaine striding off ahead while Graham and I with our walking sticks took our time enjoying a long chat. The walk was about 2 hours long and at the far end there were some rock climbers and also some chipmunks.

Graham and Betty, the two old crocks.

Back to our rooms to catch up with emails etc. and just collapse a bit. Our room was on the 7^th floor at the far end of the complex but we also had a fantastic view of the lake and glacier.

We arranged to meet up at the Lakeside Lounge and were given a table centre front with the same view as Jeanette and Graham's as the sun set. The changing colours on the scene with the fading light was mesmerising. Dinner was great, not too big, with wine, butter chicken, and I had crème caramel for dessert.

We then browsed the shops and went out for even more views of the sunset colours. When we returned to our room I had a bath to help rehydration then we both collapsed into bed.

What a magnificent place this is. It even has a deli where you can get sandwiches and coffee at a reasonable price so you don't feel that you need to walk to town which is quite a way.

Tuesday 13 September – Lake Louise-Jasper

What a joy to wake up to that view over Lake Louise! We packed and breakfasted on cereal with juice. A coffee in the room then we took the chance of leaving our bags in our room to be collected and went down for a wander.

Elaine went on a longer walk with Jeanette while Graham took a stroll. He eventually found me waiting for the coach. I woke feeling seedy with the beginnings of a cold so was happy to sit. This morning's system for baggage was much smoother but we'll see what happens at the other end before passing final judgement.

Our coach took us on a sightseeing tour between Lake Louise and Jasper on the Icefields Parkway.

We stopped at the Crowfoot Glacier, Bow Lake, Peyto Lake and Snowbird Glacier before reaching the Columbia Icefield by lunch time. A quick lunch was followed by two shuttle rides onto the large glacier where we were able to walk around for a short while before returning to our coach. We saw three Mountain Goats on the hillside way above the coach. On then for a short stop at the Athabasca Falls. They were fantastic. Really quite short but extremely powerful.

Betty and Elaine on the Athabasca Glacier.

We actually saw four bighorn sheep today just by the roadside.

On through Jasper then to the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge were we were allocated our cabin. Quite magnificent in its outlook over the lake. Our luggage was delivered safely and we met Jeanette and Graham for dinner at the only dining room available – the Emerald Lounge. Elaine and I shared a salad with chicken and it was delicious.

Our cabin in Jasper.

Having sorted our next move for tomorrow we returned to our cabin to wind down and sort and for me to nurse my cold coming on. Thank goodness I remembered my cold remedy medication.

Today has been our first cold day but even so I only had to wear a vest and windcheater in case it was too cold on the icefield. On the glacier it was 10 C but earlier in the morning it was 4 C. Jasper was 21 C when we got there but quickly cooled down.

Two More Days in Vancouver

Tuesday 6 September

Woke a bit stiff and sore close to 8 am. After breakfast and a load of washing, Delia and John took us to experience Costco where we bought salads for a picnic lunch and some cheeses for us to take tomorrow for the scratch meals we will need.

We then headed to Lynn Headwaters Park but that was apparently not the intended destination so with a bit of backtracking we eventually found the Lynn Canyon Park (http://lynncanyon.ca/ ).

We parked then went on our walk across the suspension bridge then followed the river up to the lovely deep and probably icy cold pool. After we returned we enjoyed our salads for lunch at a picnic table in a beautifully shady cedar and fir forest.

Then a visit to the ecology centre where there were fantastic displays of the ecology of evergreen woodlands and some of the effects of development on these areas. We then headed to the Mt Seymore ski area (no snow) (http://www.mountseymour.com/home ) and enjoyed beautiful views across to Mt Baker. We were able to identify a lot of the landmarks in the greater Vancouver area.

The drive home was long and hot and the air was very still after the cool of the mountains.

Home again to sit on the deck in a slight breeze to enjoy some fresh figs, cake, candied salmon and a coffee to regain our sanity. We had chicken and salad for dinner and sat up downloading photos, watching TV and just chatting.

Wednesday 7 September

Still a bit stiff and sore this morning but I was up at about 6:30am. Watched the Chikadees (birds) on the apple trees for a while then started typing up my diary before picking blackberries for breakfast with our cereal.

Once we were packed Delia and John drove us to the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver where we are to stay as part of our Rocky Mountains tour. The room was ready so we were in by about 11am. We settled then went food shopping at the Urban Fare (http://urbanfare.com/ ) supermarket nearby. Wow! What a classy place. We came back and had cheese, salad and crackers for lunch then I began typing up my diary again while Elaine (who doesn't like to stay still for long) went for a few walks. We also spent time sorting our bags for the next few days.

At about 3 pm we headed out to look at Gastown. Unfortunately we were one street away and only found derros and drug addicts so quickly made our way down to where we saw hanging baskets of flowers. That was better – tourist shops, the steam clock that actually chimed for us, had an ice cream that wasn't very nice then made our way slowly back to the Vancouver Lookout (http://www.vancouverlookout.com/ ) to meet Karinya. We went up the glass lift to the top and all spent a little time discussing places we'd been and things we'd enjoyed while looking at the fabulous views in all directions.

 We wandered along the waterfront but as I had begun to wilt badly we headed towards the hotel for dinner. On the way Karinya saw a Cactus Club Cafe (http://www.cactusclubcafe.com/ ) and said she'd always wanted to go there so we went there instead. It was a fabulous meal – chicken Caesar salad and fish tacos shared between us. We bought two meals and asked for three plates. The server even gave us three fish tacos instead of the normal two so we could split the dish easily.

After dinner I perked up a lot so we took Karinya back to the hotel to show her our room and share some of our raspberries for dessert.

A bit of washing and sorting after Karinya left then of to bed soon after 9 pm.

Earthquake in Vancouver

There was an earthquake off Vancouver Island yesterday (Richter 6 we heard). We were on the train so did not feel anything. Karinya all OK, did not feel anything.

My back is now recovering.

Six days with Delia and John

Thursday 1 September

Jason, Bernessa and Elaine arrived at about 7 am to drive Elaine and I to the airport to start our epic journey to North America.

We weighed in well under the limit but, of course, further steps in our journey will require a lower weight anyway. Elaine also has a bag of things that Karinya has asked her to bring over.

Our wait at the airport was uneventful and we both purchased neck pillows. The flight was a bit late boarding and leaving. During our wait and the flight Elaine and I did our Rainbow Connection Quilters homework to write up some rules about how to “raffle” our quilts amongst ourselves next year. Having done this there was time to chat, read, watch movies and eat. Not much sleeping was done by either of us. The flight was very smooth and the landing excellent. It was the pilot's last flight and on docking the plane was hosed down by the fire trucks, a traditional farewell to pilots.

Unfortunately when Elaine collected her bags one was severely damaged so she spent some time traipsing around the airport to deal with it. Meanwhile we met Delia and John and waited a bit while Elaine continued traipsing without luck. She later made the following statement via email and we hope Karinya (Elaine's daughter living in Vancouver – www.getjealous.com ) will be able to get some compensation for her soon … 'When I collected my baggage from the carousel at Vancouver yesterday I noticed that the bag was broken in the handle area. I asked a security guard in the area where to report the incident. He pointed me to the information desk at the exit gate. They in turn pointed me to the Air Canada Care office who then said I would have to go to the baggage centre at the Domestic terminal. By this stage my connection transport had been waiting almost an hour so rather than delay further I rang your office when I had reached my destination. By this time the bag handle had completely come away from the bag and I am no longer able to use it.' We then took the long way home seeing a little of Vancouver on the way.

After setting in, admiring the house and view and having lunch we three girls drove up to Walnut Grove to have a lovely long walk along the track through parkland between the houses. Then we walked back along the main road to return to the car. Home again to have a snooze (about an hour each) before dinner.

 

A great surprise for Elaine was that Delia had arranged for her daughter Rebecca to meet up with Karinya and bring her out for dinner as well. What a great reunion it was. Dinner was delightfully British Columbian – fresh salmon (the last of the season) and corn on the cob (wonderfully tender and sweet) and other veges to go with it. Then dessert was stewed plums and yoghurt followed by a yummy grape cake.

Delia and John's daughter Joanna came over for dessert and after a lot of chat Delia, John and Elaine drove Karinya back home and I collapsed into bed after only about 2 hours sleep in about 36 hours.

Friday 2 September

After an incredibly good sleep I woke at about 6:30 am much refreshed. Coffee, email and breakfast followed.

At 8:30 am we left for our drive to Whistler. It was amazing to drive along past Vancouver with mountains on one side and the bay on the other side. The recent Olympics has apparently led to an upgrade of infrastructure up to the Whistler ski slopes (about 150 km from Surrey where Delia and John live). Www.whistlerblackcomb.com

We arrived at Whistler in time for a quick coffee before buying our chair lift tickets. We were surprised to find out that the tickets allowed access to all the connected lifts operating all day but once we came down again we could not go back up. We were able to get seniors tickets and Delia had a discount voucher for us so a total of $63 got us onto two gondola rides and three chair lifts for as many times as we wanted (about 14 km of rides). At the first chair lift Elaine and I took a bit of time in the air working out how to lower the safety bar but got it down before we'd gone too far up.

We only really had time for one ride on each available lift but what fantastic and breathtaking views we had all day! There was a cute little chipmunk at Blackcomb.

We didn't get down off the mountains for lunch till about 3pm, by which time I was feeling a bit like jelly. Had a good lunch at Milestones even if the service was a bit slow.

We were then treated to a Cows ice cream (www.cows.ca ) before heading home. On the way home we stopped at a lookout over the bay then at Shannon Falls (335 m high). We took a detour through the township of Horseshoe Bay and saw the ferry terminal and further down the coast to Vancouver again.

We arrived home at about 8:30 pm after a wonderful day.

A quick snack of cheese, cake and a yummy nectarine sufficed for dinner. After diaries were written and important emails attended to we were in bed by 10 pm exhausted but happy.

Things I learned today …

Arbutus – trees with red-orange bark that are continuously deciduous

Western Red Cedar – coniferous tree with 'flat droopy hand' of short needles, stringy bark

Inukshuk – group of standing stones in shape of a person

Saturday 3 September

This weekend is a long weekend and the last weekend of the summer holidays for schools. I slept in till 7:30 am then breakfast.

This morning Delia took Elaine and I to the Museum of Anthropology (www.moa.ubc.ca ) via Jericho Beach.

 

We went on two guided tours at the museum. One about the first nation peoples and their totem poles and use of Western Red Cedar timber. We were also introduced to the work of Haida sculptor Bill Reid whose work is the centrepiece in the museum, is on the $20 note and also at the airport. The next one was an outside tour of the buildings including a Haida House and Mortuary House. I recognised cornflowers in the grassland. We also saw some Inuit work. I especially liked a chess set made by an Inuit artist. The chess set was made by Inuit and all the little pieces were tiny stone carvings of various Inuit figures - bears, seals, fish, people etc. It was in the museum and unfortunately they did not have a cheap plastic look alike in the museum shop. They are missing an opportunity there. The museum was fantastic!

 
While there Delia had a phone call from Joanna who suggested we meet her at Granville Island Market for lunch. Eventually we found parking and Joanna. Elaine and I shared a serving of perogies and pancakes, a Ukrainian dish popular in Vancouver. They were like a pumpkin filled ravioli sort of dish.

We wandered around the market amazed by the cheap prices of beautiful summer berries and fruits. There was lots of fresh produce and meats, fish and cheese.

Then there were a few artisan shops and some kitch shops. Even the kitch was different to Sydney kitch. One of the artists I did really like was Hilary Morris www.beaver-pond.com .

Heading home from the market we drove through Stanley Park. There we parked and took a walk around the point and Delia was glad that we were able to see Mt Baker (in Washington State, USA) so clearly. There was much activity on the water – cruise ships, sea planes and numerous other more regular craft.

The park is a very popular place for families, cyclists, walkers and there was even a wedding. We saw a grove of totem poles and even a raccoon at Prospect Point.

On our way home from the park we were able to tick off a few more 'must sees' – a group of laughing statues at English Bay that Elaine knew about, a flock of Canada Geese and then a 218 flavour ice cream shop (www.lacasagelato.com ). Of course we all had ice creams (mine was Baileys-coconut and Hazelnut fudge) then headed home.

Sunday 4 September

Up at about 7 am and spent some time downloading photos from all our cameras and putting trips into Google Earth. Delia and John went to church and arrived home mid-morning.

Elaine and I did a load of washing and we completed our tour of the house – an amazing place! We picked some fresh figs and ate them too.

I tried unsuccessfully to photograph a bumble bee – they don't sit for long in any one place. Part of our tour was to see Delia's fabric stash. She gave us both pieces that will be useful for coming projects and a great memory of our visit.

Karinya rang to say hello and we all ended up meeting her at the west end of the Skytrain line and continuing on in the car to Steveston, a fishing port south of Richmond. Delia bought a whole salmon for dinner and we had fish and chips for a very late lunch.

We then spent time browsing through the craft and produce market. I bought a new pencil case from a craft worker, Shirley Fedoruk. It is just the size and shape I need.

Then the long drive home, dropping Karinya back at the station again.

Delia and John live about 35 km(?) out of Vancouver centre in an unfinished but quite workable 5-bedroomed house. The whole of the basement is John's offices and workshops. The entry level is the living and bedroom area and upstairs is a sewing landing (looking over the loungeroom void) and another sitting/play room cum extra bedroom (making 6). They have 5 acres on a very long block down the hill to the blueberry farms on the flats below. We often hear the noise guns scaring the birds off the crops.

Monday 5 September (Labour Day Public Holiday)

I didn't get up till 7:30 am this morning and enjoyed a lovely long shower before breakfast. I went out the front gate and picked blackberries for breakfast from the hedge. I had noticed them yesterday as we left the house. There are lots I cannot reach but still got plenty and there will be plenty out there for tomorrow as well.

Joanna rang to suggest a walk along the Fraser River on the Fort to Fort walk. We met her at about 10 am then walked west for two hours until my back suddenly gave way and I had to stop. The others walked back to the car then came to collect me at Derby Reach parking area. I had actually thought my hip-back-leg was doing really well! Bummer!

We then went to Fort Langley for lunch at Beatnik's. It was a lovely crab salad.

 

This I followed with an icecream. We went for a stroll along the tourist shops then headed home, dropping Jo to her's then stopping for fuel and fruit on the way. So now we are sitting on the deck in the shade (about 30C out inn the sun) eating delicious nectarines, grapes and cherries.

Mt Baker over the border in Washington state has been prominent on the horizon and the weather has been hot and clear, giving a great view.

Dinner was seafood soup (excellent!) then John and Delia drove us south. First to find Elaine's cousin's house (Kay, who is away at the moment) where she will be staying when she returns to Vancouver. Then to White Rock to experience the beautiful evening by the beach looking over to the USA. Lastly to Peace Arch and the border crossing. The traffic queues coming back to Canada were huge as there is cheaper shopping just over the border.

Back home to collapse into bed to allow my poor sore back to recover – I hope.

In all we've had a fantastic week and just love Vancouver. Thank you so much Delia and John for a wonderful experience.