Hakone to Tokyo

This morning we woke to the sound of rain and bird calls above the rush of the river. Mist hung low in the valley with little hop of lifting to see Mt Fuji. After breakfast the decision was made not to drive to the Mt Fuji fifth station but to visit the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum on Lake Kawaguchi at the foot of Mt Fuji.

What a magnificent museum displaying the fabric art of Itchiku Kubota in the form of kimonos. They are glorious! I was even tempted to buy fabric to remind me of his work as we were not allowed to take photos inside the museum. The garden and buildings (inspired by Gaudi) were also awe inspiring, especially as the autumn foliage colours were so intense.

 

 

To top off the whole visit, as if we hadn't already taken too many photos, Mt Fuji came into view just as we were about to leave. Quite breathtaking even though there was a bit of cloud hiding the summit.

Reluctantly we boarded the bus to go back to the lake for lunch. The view became even better and our lovely driver manoeuvred the bus so that we could get some amazing pictures.

Lunch was in a restaurant overlooking the lake and we had teppanyaki – fine slices of pork and vegetables to be cooked by us on the hot rock plates accompanied by rice, miso soup and green tea.

 

We then headed back through the mountains enjoying our last glimpses of Mt Fuji, to Odawara to catch our next bullet train to Shinagawa, a southern 'suburb' of Tokyo. While waiting on the platform two bullet trains when through at full speed and were incredibly fast. It was only a 20 minute trip but by the time we walked across the road to the hotel we were all so exhausted that we decided not to meet for dinner but just buy essentials and collapse.

Unfortunately the air conditioning in the room doesn't seem to work and it is extremely hot as it has been in every room we've had. At least last night we could open the balcony door for a bit of fresh air.

Robyn and I went out for milk and dinner supplies from 7-11 then had dinner in the room. I did my last washing and created our normal chinese laundry. We eventually worked out how to get the TV in English but got sick of US elections so spent time on emails before getting into bed. We also got the airconditioning working at last so were quite comfortable under our doonas.

Nagoya to Hakone

Off to the bullet train to catch the 9:24 to Odawara, just over an hour away. There we were met by our new guide Keiko who directed us to buy picnic lunch to take with us.

We then boarded our new bus and drove up the steep windy road to Harkone and enjoyed our lunch by Ashi Lake watching tour boats come and go and the locals fishing.

After lunch we boarded one of the tour boats that looked quite incongruous in the setting. This tour was very pleasant and dropped us at the far end of the lake where we took the cable car up to Owakudani Hot Springs. The smell of sulphurous fumes from the springs was quite noticeable. Eggs were being slow boiled in the hot water and came out as black eggs that are supposed to extend your life by 7 years when eaten. I chose not to do so but did enjoy the walk to the springs. Mt Fuji was supposed to be visible from there but the low cloud meant it was not.

By the time we were ready to leave the bus had arrived and drove us back down the very steep hill to the Yomoto Fujiya Hotel in Hakone. We had time to dump our things in our Japanese style room then headed across the river into town (one long street). After a walk to see the shops (mostly food shops) Robyn and I went back to freshen up and sort out.

Dinner was another fantastic Japanese meal with 8 courses, ending with tea. It was then time for our communal hot bath in traditional Japanese style. This was a most relaxing experience that 8 of us enjoyed.

By the time we came back to the room we were both well and truly ready for our hot drink and bed!

  

Nagoya Patchwork

This morning we had a lovely sleep in and a relaxed breakfast as we have the morning off. Robyn and I then went down to the foyer for Robyn to catch up on emails. She decided to go to the Aeon Mall with some of the others while I went back upstairs to sort bags for the next few days.

I went out shopping to look for Japanese caramels. I did buy another choux pastry with custard for lunch. I also had time to update the blog.

Our afternoon and evening activity was to visit the Catpatch Quilting group at Kumarki just north of Nagoya. That was a fabulous experience! We all made a silk camelia with much laughter all round and very little english. Luckily our interpreter came which did help a little.

Next was show and tell. I showed my two coats. The Japanese ladies had made lovely quilts using Australian fabrics and themes after Lynn's previous visit a few years ago.

Then came gift exchange. We drew Australian animal names from a hat and were thus matched with a Japanese person. Such a range of lovely small gifts of fabrics and hand made items.

Then followed the most delicious dinner made by the ladies who had each brought a plate of home cooked food ('mother taste' food). It was delicious (except I avoided the sushimi). My favourite was grapefruit jelly – so fresh. Other interesting tastes were hard persimmons and a Japanese 'brownie'. However, everything I tasted was delicious.

After much chatter and laughter we headed back to the hotel (a half hour drive) and collapsed into bed.

 

 

 

Nagoya Shibori

After breakfast we met our new guide Makiko ('Kiko') in the lobby. While waiting for her our bus driver from Kyoto arrived to meet another group and recognised us all. Many smiles and nods all round!

Our first trip was to the Arimatsu Shibori Centre south of Nagoya where we all made a shibori decorated handkerchief. Quite a slow process for our novice hands . Once they are dyed they will be sent home to us. Of course the centre had a shop where I was able to find a small piece of fabric and a handkerchief both dyed using the shibori technique. The centre is on the old western highway, a very narrow minor street now, that is flanked on both sides with original buildings that were the main shibori district of Japan for hundreds of years.

Next we went to the Nagoya Castle, the tower of which has been rebuilt after it was bombed in WWII. It is now a museum with a viewing area on the top floor and 6 museum floors below. There was a chrysanthemum show on but the bonsai chrysanthemums were very impressivel

 

 

We were then dropped at our hotel for a free afternoon but we were first desperate for some lunch. We headed for the food hall under the 'twin tower' station building then Robyn and I sat outside to eat our chicken. It was very windy!

Back into a large DJs style department store called JR Takashimaya where we were astounded by the goods available. A fabulous science section with plastic embedded skeletons of very tiny fine animals, an art section with every conceivable art material then a tiny fabric section. Exhaustion set in by mid afternoon so we headed home to put our feet up and have a coffee – ahhhh!

I left Robyn to have a nanna nap while I went down to the foyer to update blog and catch up on diary writing.

A number of us met at 6:30pm to find dinner. I left most of mine as I am not feeling very hungry this evening. Hopefully it is not a sign of things to come! Robyn, Lynn and I then did a quick trip to the mini mart for something sweet to have with our tea and some more milk for tomorrow.

Back 'home' to collapse.

Kyoto to Nagoya

As Robyn and I went down to breakfast we delivered our large bags to the drop-off point to be trucked to Nagoya while the group did more sightseeing before catching the bullet train to Nagoya to meet our bags again.

After breakfast we visited Wendy's room to see her view (stunning), then vice versa (view of railway station). Our next task was to check out and set up in the lounge for internet and diary catch up. Robyn had a fortunate visit to the shop in the basement of the hotel and bought a superb silk coat with some patchwork on it. Unfortunately there was only one so I still retained my cash.

Onto the bus at 10am for a trip to Arashiyama on the river to the west of Kyoto. We walked along the river then up to the serene bamboo forest. We had a short cold wind and shower of rain but by the time we were in the forest the rain had stopped. There was a man making delicate bamboo dragonflies. Of course I succumbed and bought one. I hope I get it back through customs. Back through the streets of traditional buildings and stalls with some very beautiful wares including umbrellas that only show their pattern when wet.

 

 

 

 

The bus then took us back to Daimaru food hall again. I bought the same picnic lunch. However, when we arrived at the indoor picnic spot I was tempted by the green tea ice cream and coffee at the cafe. This meant I had a little too much lunch!

The afternoon stop was the Fureaiken Museum of Traditional Crafts of the Kyoto area. It was amazing, with a great shop where I bought a new scrunchie for myself.

On the bus again for our trip to Kyoto station where Ikuko (our guide) even came up to ensure we got on the train safely. It was a bullet train (Shinkansen) that literally flew through the countryside and almost continues towns making photography very difficult. We arrived in Nagoya 35 minutes later and found the Meitetsu New Grand Hotel with little trouble. What a way to travel! The only issue was that the toilet at our end of the carriage must have been blocked and stank appaulingly.

Eleven of us met at 6:30pm to search for dinner and ended up with Japanese Italian. The stories over dinner abounded and caused much laughter. We wandered slowly back through the mall. We found a great cheap clothing shop where Robyn and I discussed how to knit one of the jumpers on sale. I decided to try it on to see how it looked before trying to knit it. I liked it so much I bought it on the spot!

Off then to the Mini Mart to buy milk and up to our room for a silver tea before bed.

 

Kyoto fabrics

Robyn and I met Margaret and Karen at the hotel restaurant for breakfast. Back to the room for a bit of organisation then onto the bus by 9am to go to the Nishijin Textile Centre.

Our first activity was to weave a small placemat on a loom. Then to the shop before watching the kimono show. Luckily we had time to return to the shop where I bought some samples of jacquard fabrics made in Kyoto.

 

Our next stop was to the Daimaru department store food hall to buy our own takeaway lunch to eat at Nijo Castle. Wendy and I chose prawn sushi roll and fresh mango juice.

Off to Nijo Castle where, after our picnic lunch and removing our shoes we were able to have a tour of the castle and its nightingale floor. Of course we were again stopped by school children who wanted to practise their English.

As we were leaving the castle we came across a number of women in the garden dressed in kimonos. They had been attending a function. They even allowed us to take their photo. The wisteria in the garden was just as you see in Japanese art, with elegantly weeping leaves, unlike ours at home that seem to reach out everywhere.

From Nijo Castle we headed to the Yudon Fabric Dying Centre and Museum where we printed a handkerchief in a traditional design using a series of stencils. Once we were all finished and a little disappointed with our efforts the staff came around and did the last stencil of 'magic' white lines typical of the Kyoto area. Suddenly our prints came to life and were beautiful instead of very amateur.

Back to the hotel for our formal 'welcome' by Lynn and Deb and our personal introductions to the group. Robyn, Lynn, Deb and I then headed to Harves to buy takeaway dinner and some wine. We took it all back to our room (it was the biggest) and shared our meal with much chatting.

After dinner Robyn and I packed our bags ready to leave Kyoto tomorrow.

 

Kyoto Temples and Shrines

We were both up by about 6:30am and enjoyed our coffee/tea in our new mugs. Breakfast at about 7:30 followed by some diary typing.

The group met in the foyer at 9am for our bus trip to various temples around Kyoto.

Kiyomazu Temple – Buddhist

Here we joined huge crowds to walk to the temple up the hill of many small shops. There were women in kimono who can apparently get free entry to the temple (in fact some of them were western). Some delightfully polite school girls approached us to practise their English. Robyn and I found a fabulous little craft alley where Robyn actually tried on a wrap-around apron, but was not tempted to buy it.

 

 

 

 

Heian Shrine – Shinto

Here we were delighted by two little 3 year old girls all dolled up in their kimonos for some rite of passage at the shrine. The smile that my little koala brought when given to one of the little girls was worth waiting for. At the entrance were a pile of saki barrels to advertise the companies that donate saki for the services. We were approached by an older student to practise English again. Such fun to just have these students approach us. The garden in behind the shrine was beautiful and I was impressed by the long bridge over the pond.

 

 

 

 

Ginkakuji Temple (Silver Pavilion) – Buddhist

Here we ran the gauntlet of another road of shops to the gardens around the temple. Another beautiful garden.

Lunch was at Shozan restaurant. It was a fantastically presented Japanese box meal. Robyn ate my sushumi and I ate her tempura (prawns and sweet potato). The meal included:

1. miso soup with fish ball and seaweed

2. rice and small dishes of greens and radish to add

3. green tea

4. four small bowls of

sushimi

tempura

tofu and bean curd with pork and smoked salmon

potato and other small tastes

In all a beautiful meal! There was a beautiful craft shop attached to this restaurant but unfortunately we did not have time to browse but were rushed off to our next temple to get it in the right light.

Kinkakuji Temple (Gold Pavilion) – Buddhist

It really is covered in gold leaf and shone in the light.

Ryoanji Temple – Buddhist

This temple had a Zen meditation garden with 15 large stones. These are never all in view at one time as 15 is a perfect number and it is not done to actually achieve perfection.

Back at the hotel by about 5pm to sort photos and diaries and recharge batteries (ourselves and our technology). I was able to get wifi in the ground floor lounge of the hotel and to deal with a few emails. I also backed up the photos of the first few days of the trip. 

We met Lynn and Deb and Margaret at 7pm and went for dinner at KYK restaurant. Another delicious but cheap Japanese meal that Robyn and I shared happily.

We then took an escalator ride to level 11 in the station building to the roof top garden and the view over the hotel to the southern part of Kyoto. What a magnificent building with a long series of escalators!

Back to buy ore milk and some postcards on our way to the motel. Then time for a silver tea and sleep at about 9:30pm