Wednesday, June 12, 2019

Top End Travels - Karumba to Undara

Monday 3 June 2019 (G to H on the map)

This morning we woke to a cloudy morning which turned quite cold and windy for an outside breakfast.



We drove back to Normanton passing spoonbills and pelicans and at Mutton Hole Ponds there were waterlilies galore, presumably Nymphaea alexii. We actually stopped for me to get photos and saw lots of brolgas on the edge.




At Normanton we caught the Gulflander train, a tourist train run by Qld Rail, to Critters Camp. This was lots of fun but much less comfortable than our bus.








At Critters Camp Faye and Paul had morning tea waiting for us, much to the envy of the other passengers who were all heading back to Normanton on the return train journey.



Back on the bus with the toilet out of order again so there was a toilet stop at Black Bull Siding before our lunch stop at Croydon where we had a bit of time to wander. It was here we started to hit the Grey Nomads as we got closer to civilization.



We had another stop at Cumberland Chimney where there is a beautiful wetland and lots of lilies and birds.




We travelled most of the day on single lane bitumen until we got to Undara for our overnight stay in the old train carriages. These are much more up-market than when Surrey and I stayed in one many years ago (no phone or internet though) but unfortunately I was not as appreciative of the luxury as I could have been as I had a bout of diorhoea. It was also extremely cold so I resorted to wearing my thermals as pyjamas.


Top End Travels - Burketown to Karumba

Sunday 2 June 2019 (F to G on the map)

James and I were first out to the bus after breakfast so Paul suggested we take a walk to the town bore. As this was where I was looking for one of the Nymphaea species Surrey had named I was quick to agree. Unfortunately it was all too slippery to walk around and there were no water lilies to be seen anywhere. However, there were a few wallabies and lots of white water birds in the distance.


We were then back on the bus and heading out of Burketown towards Normanton and Karumba. On the way we saw brolga (probably Sarus Cranes), Bustards, and a small flock of budgies.

At Leichhardt Falls we saw the huge amount of sand that had been washed down in the flooding in Western Qld.





As there was no shelter from the very strong wind we did not have morning tea there but continued on. We saw more brolgas and a dingo. At Inverleigh Station we saw some longhorn cattle from Texas for a cross breeding program with the usual Brahman cattle of the tropics.  We saw some Wedgies and a large flook of galahs.





At the Burke and Wills Camp 119 we found some shelter to have morning tea and viewed the few remnants of their camp site. We saw some cockatiels and mistletoe in flower.


By the Flinders River which was 80km wide when it was in flood recently we saw flood debris still in the trees and along the fence lines, with occasional cattle carcasses still caught.



When we reached Normanton we were dropped off to see a life size model of Krys the Croc which had been caught by a crocodile hunter in the area. We then walked back to the park for a relaxed lunch. Once lunch was finished, the left over meat had to be tossed so we had fun watching the Black Kites come in droves to feast of the bits Paul threw to them.





Just out of Normanton we saw huge numbers of water birds in Mutton Hole Ponds as well as a large population of Nymphaea alexii named by Surrey for Alex. We then slowed at 12 Mile Creek to see the lilies in the place the type specimen Surrey had collected.



In Karumba we went straight to the Les Wilson Barramundi Discovery Centre, an impressive building housing a great display about Barramundi. We then had a chance to hand feed them with much laughing as they came up to suck in the squid we were feeding.


Out to our motel, The End of the Road Motel, to an even more spacious unit that last night. Time for a cuppa in the room (no internet) then back out to a boat for our sunset cruise.


The cruise took us up the Norman River harbour showing us the sights and a Jabiru then back out to see past a real crocodile and a flock of Royal Spoonbills feeding on the edge just a little further on.




We eventually landed on a tiny sand island 7km out in the Gulf of Carpentaria where we had phone reception, for prawns and bubbly and a great dinner whilst we watched the sunset and the sand blow away beneath our feet. I collected a few shells to take back and in all had a fabulous time despite the gusty wind. I felt quite exposed on such a tiny pile of sand in crocodile infested waters.








Back at the motel at last, in the dark, to settle in for the night.

Top End Travels - Adels Grove to Burketown

Saturday 1 June 2019 (E to F on the map)


I slept soundly all night waking just before the alarm. Then to breakfast (again no jugs in the room but there was power, no internet) and onto the bus for an early start.

Our first trip was out to Riversleigh Fossil Site D. On the way I saw wild pigs, a Bustard and Red Kangaroos taking advantage of the cool of the morning. There was also a dingo.



We walked the short track at the site with a guide who was able to interpret a lot of what we would otherwise have missed in the rocks.








Back to Lawn Hill Gorge where, after morning tea, another guide led us on a botanical/geological walk along the creek.








Then we went on a cruise up the Gorge. Wow! what a stupendous place. The waterlilies were so thick that the rangers had to get permission to clear a track through for the boat.







Lunch was ready when we returned to Adels Grove.


However, just as we felt as if we were relaxing we were back on the bus to head for Burketown via Gregory. It was a very patchy road into Gregory but after that was quite smooth driving on our first real bitumen road in a week. We saw lots of wallabies and raptors including a Wedge-tailed Eagle. Closer into Burketown we saw quite a few Brolgas.



We settled into our accommodation at the Savannah Lodge. Some of our group had to stay in the Burketown Pub. Dinner was at the pub. The meals were huge!!! I am pleased I only ordered pan-fried Barramundi and vegetables and no chips. I feel pleasantly full.



Back to the Lodge to settle in for the night in my rather palatial unit. At last there is a jug in the room but no internet for blogging. There is phone connection.